terrshee's Diaryland Diary

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Florence Day 2

Day 2 in Florence, and I'm really on culture overload. The Duomo is very cool, especially the crypt. It was a good moment when I saw the funerary portrait of Sir John Hawkwood, a long time favorite subject of mine. The Duomo museum is also nice, in particular the architectural models for the church facades and the display of tools from construction of the dome.

The Museum San Marco, famed for its Giotto frescos, was good, but more interesting and frustrating were the displays in the cell of Savanarola. They have a cape of his, but you can't get close enough to discern construction details. They have a reproduction of the original Savanarola chair and a diagram of its parts, but nothing in the gift shop.

Couldn't get near the Uffizi this morning and will have to make a reservation later today. You'd think the dead of winter wouldn't have lines, but no. The scourge of Japanese tourists is universal.

I have already experienced my special curse in traveling. People come up to me and start asking for directions, etc. (in whatever the local language is). This has happened in London, Paris, Frankfurt and now Florence. I guess I don't look like the typical American, perhaps because I'm not traveling in a loud pack and don't have highlights in my hair. I�m embarrassed by the behavior of many of my countrymen when in foreign countries.

And now some general observations:

1. While photographs of buildings don't have the same impact as the reality, photographs of works of art actually let you enjoy the view better. Yes, you lose something in color reproduction and context, but most art books let you see what is going on from better angles and in better lighting. The buildings, on the other hand, have a scale that just can't be appreciated unless you stand across the square and think about what it took to get all those stones and all that ornamentation in place.

2. I love old cities in Europe for the wonderful doorways. Lovely massive slabs of wood with huge knobs and knockers are just everywhere. Florence has 'em in abundance.

3. I was warned that shops here are highly specialized. One will sell only leather coats, one will sell on purses, one will sell only women's clothing, one will see only bedding, or fruit or whatever. There are shops everywhere, and you just have to look at each one.

4. All the stuff I've seen so far that I want to bring home is large and breakable. So I won't be bringing any of it home. Damn. Glass and majolica ware are gorgeous here.

5. I think the Italians must have a thing for butts. The shop displays for intimate garments all have at least one that shows the back of the panties. And there are postcards at the Medici tombs that show the butt on one of the Michelango sculptures. That's just the butt, not the back as a whole.

I'm heading back to the hotel for a while to regroup and recoup. I've been wandering the city since early this morning and have to figure out what's next. Although a nap might be in order.

Ciao, amiche.

12:58 p.m. - 2005-02-09
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